How To Lay Pavers, Brick, Patio Stone and Stone Pavers

Brainstorm by assessing what is currently in the projection area where you intend to lay your new pavers. If y'all have a lot of sugar sand, you are going to want to remove equally much equally possible. If the water table is high in your surface area, or y'all have water and/or flooding issues, the base material depth will have to change. In Florida, we live in dirt, sand, and if you are lucky yous may accept a lime rock bed nether the area (which is unlikely). Therefore, you must have precautionary measures to ensure your pavers will not fail over fourth dimension. Follow the simple steps below to brand sure your hard-scape lasts in our tropical climate.

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Choosing your Pavers/Patio Stones:

Pavers, Patio Stones, Dirt Brick, Turf Cake, travertine, Natural Flagstone, Natural Keystone, Dumbo Oolite etc… are bachelor in a broad diversity of colors, shapes, sizes, strengths, etc… There are unlike products to match different applications. Here are a few "rules" to follow when choosing a hardscape for your project:

Thin pavers/brick are NEVER to be used for a driving surface. I don't care what you have heard, unless you accept a specially engineered, loftier-strength, polymer production specifically designed to be driven on, you will ruin sparse pavers/brick if you lot drive on them. No affair if they are all mortared to a concrete slab or have 12" of base under them, they will fail.

For a driveway, yous should install a minimum of a 2" thick paver/brick. They should be approximately 7800psi+. If installing travertine, 6"x12" should be the maximum size pieces used and MUST be laid in a 90 degree herring bone pattern ONLY. Some Natural Flagstone and Natural Cobble Stone is strong enough for driveway even so the installation tin can be difficult if the stone is not the same top. For walkways, whatever size patio stone, paver, brick, Keystone, Natural Flagstone, Dumbo Oolite etc… may be used, provided the proper underlayment has been installed.

Patio Stones are NEVER to be used for a driveway. They will crack the first time you endeavor to drive on them. Only use in areas with foot traffic and be certain to use a rubber mallet to prepare them in place. DO Not run a plate compactor over them after installing as you would a typical paver. Patio Stones are typically only 1200-1300psi.

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Mark the Project Area Dimensions:

If your project is square or rectangular, drive a spike into each corner and draw a cord line or spray paint the lines betwixt the spikes to marker where y'all volition be digging. For an irregularly shaped project, only mark the edges with spray paint or lay a garden hose along the outer border to marking the surface area.

Identify Grade Stakes at the edges of the project area. Bulldoze the stakes down until the top reaches the desired meridian of the new Paver Area. Later as you dig you draw a string line between the pale, then Measure down to the desired depth to allow for the Paver Base Textile. Make sure that you lot slope your new project so that water will run off were you want it and not into a garage or living room.

You need to remove about 8 inches of earth to install pavers and a base of operations for them. This volition allow for 5 inches of Screenings, i/2 inch of Diamond Sand, and the thickness of the paver, which is generally most 2 1/2; inches. If your pavers are thicker or thinner, change your excavation depth accordingly. Every bit you dig, periodically place a string Line beyond the surface area from grade pale to grade stake, and then measure down to check the excavation depth.

Y'all need to remove trees, shrubs, grass, roots, concrete etc… from the area you intend to install your new difficult scape. It is of import to brand sure you have removed all organic matter from the expanse. Organic textile will pause down over fourth dimension and create air pockets in the substrate. The void will somewhen cave in, causing your pavers to cave too. Make sure you lot permit for the proper amount of base, sand, mortar, etc… so the meridian of the finished product reaches the desired height when installation is complete.

Do not confuse "base" with "sand." Sand alone is NEVER a practiced base of operations cloth. Typical base of operations materials common in our area are: Crushed Physical (Concrete Screening), Lime Rock Screening, and sometimes finely crushed beat if your project requires a permeable base. Beat has faded out equally a base of operations for the most function as screenings are cheaper and provide a stronger, measurable base. Screenings come up in diverse sizes, the about common (and what we stock) is 3/8" minus Concrete and Lime Rock. This size base will suffice for near residential and commercial applications unless otherwise specified.

The base must exist laid a minimum of 3" no matter what the application and must be packed to authorize a 95% plus. We recommend 3" for foot traffic and 5-6" for drive/parking areas. The depth can vary based on building weather condition. Lime and Concrete Screening perform slightly unlike from each other. While both pack very hard, concrete screening will allow a minor amount of drainage while lime volition not.

When yous begin laying the base, slightly moisten the sub-grade (which at this signal should exist clean, graded fill dirt) and lay 3" of base. If using a manus tamper or plate compactor (most common), you cannot lay more than 3" at a time without compacting. If using a jumping jack or riding rolling machine, you tin can lay information technology deeper before packing. Keep in mind however the deeper you lay the textile, the more than difficult it is to pack equally the motorcar will bury itself in the loose cloth. Moisten, DO NOT SOAK/SATURATE the Base Textile. So run your machine beyond the base in all unlike directions until it glides across the surface without sinking in.

Most people take a number of misconceptions about how, when and where to use sand when laying pavers. Sand is NOT a base of operations textile. Afterwards your base of operations is compacted, lay ½" of Diamond Sand maximum. This will give you a nice, flat surface to work off of as the base will not be "perfectly flat." The biggest misconception nigh sand is that by sweeping it in the joints after laying the pavers, that is volition lock the blueprint in place. This is simply not true. The sand laid betwixt the base and the paver is what locks the pattern in place. That said, you practice non want to lay more than ½" (Diamond Sand). Call back, sand is too dumbo to pack and will always shift and movement. It will, nevertheless, create a solid "cushion" when caught between 2 hard surfaces such as base and a paver. Subsequently laying your pavers, identify some other ½" of Sand (This time Using Stonemason Sand) beyond the surface of the paver and run your plate compactor upwardly and downwards, side to side and diagonally beyond the freshly laid pavers.

This layer of sand will act iii-fold. First, it will act as a lubricant to help the compactor slide across the pavers. Second, it will human activity as a barrier between the compactor and paver so the plate doesn't scratch or cleft the surface of the newly laid pavers. Third, your pavers will have a squeamish sand-swept articulation later the backlog sand is removed. Discover that we recommend ii types of Sand, Diamond Sand (Course Sand) for the top i/2" of the base, and then Mason Sand (Fine Sand) beyond the surface and betwixt the pavers.

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Afterwards all the prep work is done start placing your pavers in the sand, using your direct edge as a guide. Butt the pavers close together. At that place should still be a thin articulation line between the pavers that volition be filled with sand after. Use a directly edge to ensure Paver are level. Use a rubber mallet to knock downward any high pavers. Add together more than Diamond Sand and reset any low pavers. If you were diligent leveling the sand, you lot should only accept a minimal amount of leveling at this stage.

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Laying pavers over an existing slab:

First mortar your soldier (perimeter) pavers effectually the edge, keeping a consistent ½" joint. Then, lay a ½" of Diamond Sand in the field. It is imperative to lay a sand bed downwards to create a buffer betwixt the pavers and the concrete slab. Pavers rubbing against concrete volition eventually wear down and/or fissure. This will besides smoothen out whatever imperfections the slab may have had. Laying pavers over an existing driveway is not recommended, no affair the size.

If you are installing more than than 1 pallet information technology is a good practice to pull Brick from several unlike pallets every bit you work through your project. If there are slight colour variations, this practise will help to minimize whatsoever noticeable difference.

You may demand to cut pavers forth the edges of your projection. A diamond blade works well to cut through Pavers. You lot can employ a mutual round saw with a diamond blade, or a four-inch angle grinder with a diamond blade, still, the easiest and safest manner is with a brick saw. It's like a large chop saw with a diamond blade.

Yous tin can also use a hammer and chisel to cut pavers. This is the sometime-fashioned way, but it still works today. If you only have to cut a few pieces and practice non desire the hassle and added expense of renting a saw, a hammer and chisel will do just fine.

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Concrete Restraining Edge:

After pavers are installed, at that place must exist a restraining border put in place to keep the pattern from spreading and your project from falling autonomously. We recommend a concrete restraining edge. At that place are few different products on the market, but concrete is tried, tested and proven to last in the harsh weather we have here in Florida. Steel rusts, plastic splits and cracks and sod is soft.

A mini "footer" can be dug with a mitt shovel along the edge of the un-restrained pavers approximately 3" wide and three" deep. Lay mixed concrete in the footer, coming half style upward the paver. Strike the mud, angling information technology downward abroad from the paver from summit to bottom. This volition provide a clean, smooth, potent edge that will wait skilful and last.

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Laying pavers over an existing slab:

First mortar your soldier (perimeter) pavers around the edge, keeping a consistent ½" joint. Then, lay a ½" of Diamond Sand in the field. It is imperative to lay a sand bed down to create a buffer between the pavers and the concrete slab. Pavers rubbing against concrete will eventually habiliment down and/or crack. This will besides smooth out any imperfections the slab may have had. Laying pavers over an existing driveway is not recommended, no matter the size.

Sealing:

Sealing hardscapes is a peachy fashion to add together longevity to your project. It is particularly important to seal Portland based materials as they are porous and collect stains much easier than clay or natural stone. Sealing is essential around pools to keep dust out of pumps. Staining will also "enhance" the color of your hardscape. There are a number of unlike sealers on the market place. Acrylic and water base of operations are the about common, coming in a range of gloss from 10-100, measured in increments of x. We recommend a good acrylic base (such as Tuf Top). Tuf Top is a medium 50-60 Gloss.

There are a couple of of import steps to follow earlier using an acrylic sealer. Get-go, you lot MUST make certain the pavers are VERY dry. If you apply an acrylic sealer on a clammy/wet surface, the sealer volition plough hazy white and ruin the surface of the pavers. At that signal, it would be cheaper to supercede the pavers than to try and get the sealer off. That said, a elementary examination will tell whether it is safe to seal your project. Accept a regular plastic garbage bag and cut it up into a couple of proficient size pieces. Lay the pieces of plastic on the pavers in random areas, particularly any shaded areas, in the heat of the afternoon. Put some brick or something heavy on top of it to hold it flat to the surface of the pavers. Await about 30 minutes and pull up the plastic. If there is whatever wet on the underside of the plastic, DO Non Effort to seal. Expect and do another exam the following day to see if they have dried out enough.

Second, apply the sealer using a tight nap roller cover. You CANNOT spray acrylic sealer (most brands anyway) from a pump sprayer. It must be rolled on in calorie-free coats, seven-8 hours apart (times vary depending on weather weather condition). Before outset the second coat, touch the surface of the pavers with your fingertips. If it feels "tacky," do not effort to put the second coat on even so. Await until they don't feel sticky so roll on the second coat. Do non soak the roller encompass with sealer. You want to apply multiple light coats so the sealer doesn't leave streaks. Utilise a minimum of two coats. H2o based sealers tin be used immediately but traditionally exercise not concluding equally long and must be re-applied more often. Also, the higher the gloss the better the chance of getting streaks.

Clay Brick, Patio Stone, and Pavers

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