How To Repair Riser Valve
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| Oestrus riser repair #990795 Thu December 05 2013 x:26 PM |
| I just sandblasted my manifolds and the heat riser needs to be repaired. Its rusted solid. It looks like the plate is tack welded to the shaft.. is the the simply fashion its held on or is there something else I need to undo? The jump is already off, and I don't desire to unpin the counterweight if I don't take to. |
| Re: Heat riser repair |
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| Try spraying it down with some kind of lube WD40,or annihilation similar that and take a pocket-size hammer and tap the ends i way and than the other. Let it set so the lube has a take a chance to arrive there and work on the rust than take the hammer and tap it once more,continue doing that for a few days and it will offset to move dorsum and along.Don't hit it hard just a few low-cal taps and it will come loose I've done three that style and saved all of them. Pete |
| Re: Estrus riser repair |
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| did the aforementioned works great.^ Last edited by root; Fri Dec 06 2013 12:27 AM. |
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| I got information technology free... heated up the box part where the shaft went through and tapped it back and forth. I put some kroil on it and will let it sit.. its fairly loose, but even so gritty when I rotate it. |
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| Glad you got it free. Gritty means the hole in the manifold isn't all worn out. My manifold (still working on it) is severely worn. I purchase an oversized shaft from Chevs of the 40's, but the hole is still likewise big. Not sure how to movement frontwards.... |
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| I thought about bushings, but not sure how to proceed them in place other than the counter weight and spring keeping them from falling out. And, where to get an appropriate bushing. Maybe door hinge pin (shouldered) bushing would piece of work. Last edited by DavidF; Friday Dec 06 2013 06:11 PM. |
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| Bushings tin can exist "trapped" with some center punch marks around the circumference of the bushing. You just want to disrupt the metallic that surrounds the bushing a bit. Kind of like a circular peg in a now square pigsty sot of thing. Been done for e'er on the thrust washers used in onetime motorcycle crank shafts. Fifty-fifty in the store manual for my Harley. Where to get them? Endeavor these folks. |
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| Hey guys - But how badly does my '54 235 need an operating oestrus riser? The jump is missing from my heat riser. The damper moves freely. The weighted stop of the damper keeps it open. The dissever in the shaft of the damper is closed together. I live in Florida. Don't drive when it's below 40 degrees. Engine comes upward to operating temp fairly quickly. 160 deg thermostat. Any reason to install the bound? If so, where can I buy one? How hard is it to install? Seems a skilful chance of breaking the shaft when I spread it to install the spring. Thank you - Lonnie - Lonnie OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all |
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| Jim Carter and Chevs of the 40s accept the spring for $eighteen + aircraft. I retrieve they are more than for the fifty's and beneath when you lot have a risk of carb / intake icing. They are worthless for starting. Mine was stuck midway. I accept another manifold that'south stuck so I will scavange a spring off that i. |
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| The rut riser is there for a practiced reason and should be working for best engine efficiency. There is skillful scientific theory backside it. Something like , too hot a fuel accuse and the engine runs lean , too common cold and the fuel does not vaporize properly with subsequent puddling in the manifold and or washing of the bores etc. |
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| I don't know, I had my truck for 25 years, earlier I even knew that thing even existed. When I finally did become aware of it and it'due south function, there was no spring. Maybe information technology had something to exercise with the engine finally wearing out after 35 years, and probably 95,000 miles, (the odometer quit well-nigh 10 years ago.) Information technology always ran very well even in beneath zero weather condition. Although I accept a feeling the aluminum intake will require some heat. I place very picayune stock in engineers, I take had to alter and so much admittedly unacceptable equipment that had been "ENGINEERED" Think of the pinto, and the vega. Don't get me wrong, at that place are some very good engineers out there, and nigh all of our mechanical wonders were at to the lowest degree begun in some engineers head. But I have seen style more mediocre, to poor engineers, than proficient ones. Despite all this the scientific reasoning is sound, just in bodily practice it hasn't proven to be that of import in my experience. |
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| Cheers for the education and for the real world experiences. I endeavour to correct errors of previous owners by reverting to original configuration whenever I can. However, my ol' truck runs keen similar it is, although the exterior of the carb does occationally frost up when first started. I may add a jump to my side by side parts order. >> Where does the "Anti-rattle" spring go? Not looking forward to spreading the opening in the finish of the shaft to insert the leap(s). Cheers for your help, - Lonnie - Lonnie Quondam STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, vino ... I love it all |
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| The anti rattle spring goes on after the bodily heat riser spring. They are both on the shaft. Take your time spreading open the shaft, it doesn't take much to break information technology. When I did mine I just spread it enough to piece of work the spring into the slot. Last edited by don stocker; Sabbatum Dec 07 2013 03:57 PM. |
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| Lonnie, I would say you could probably get along without a heat riser. many when running headers or Fenton dual exhaust manifolds don't have whatever oestrus to the base of the carbs. John |
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| It is better to have a operation heat riser. Information technology increases the fuel delivery efficency which inturn improves mpg & ability. re. engineers and failed by machine products. I wouldn't blame the engineers, (I'm not one btw, but I've had to reengineer my share for eqt), the blame falls squarely on the MBA's running the companys that take no idea what they're producing..... |
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| The heat riser is there for a good reason and should be working for all-time engine efficiency. There is skilful scientific theory behind it. Something like , too hot a fuel charge and the engine runs lean , besides cold and the fuel does not vaporize properly with subsequent puddling in the manifold and or washing of the bores etc. The frazzle stove never heats the incoming air, nor the fuel in the carb to any significant degree (remember, its not hot till the motor runs for a few minutes). Information technology tin can warm the carb upwardly... but the carb is designed to mensurate the weight and rate of air and meter fuel appropriately. I do agree that it volition, subsequently a while, get rid of fuel puddled in the intake (which tin can exist easy to do by over choking the carb). But fifty-fifty and then, on a cold motor, its useless. The simply straight mention of the hear riser I can find in the 54 Truck Service transmission is page six-57, and that's to plough off the auto-choke. Which was optional to begin with. Model BC carbs were merely equipped on trucks with automatic transmissions. ALl 3 of my 40's vehicles, 42 Ford, 43 Chevvy G506 and 43 GMC CCKW have a very thick insulating spacer to exercise the EXACT OPPOSITE of what you say. The insulator keeps any rut FROM the carb. That's on 3 vehicles, from 3 manufacturers. So I gotta say that heating air/fuel is not what they had in mind. Last edited by pfarber; Sat December 07 2013 06:ten PM. |
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| I wonder if you might not be able to take a hacksaw blade and open up the slot in the heat riser shaft for the spring?? John |
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| Why would you lot want hot, less dense air going to the cylinders? And at the speed at which the air is traveling to the cylinders (the unmarried butt carb can exercise 300cfm) you are not putting much heat into the air. Folio 6-5 http:/ I can't run into how this does annihilation but as mentioned above... vaporize excess fuel that may pool at the lesser of the intake due to the choke or 'pumping' the gas pedal. I've looked for a detailed caption of why its at that place... oasis't constitute one. |
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| Since chevy is GMC's progeny I looked upwards what GMC has to say about it. Trucks and all that. Heat riser GMC trucks version Give me ambivalence |
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| My CCKW manual (1944) says basically the same thing: "in common cold weather"... "assistance in vaporization" http:/ Only on that 270 the operation is entirely Manual. No thermostatic spring... merely ON, OFF, or 'Best Guess' http:/ Then I can't believe that information technology is a super critical item. More than similar 'it kinda helps more than if it weren't there' kinda deal. Fuel injected motors (fifty-fifty old TBI) didn't use information technology.. and the fuel coming out of the injector was not a vapor, just atomized. |
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| In instance some of the information early in this mail service is confusing to a future reader, the folio referred to in this statement in the post above is mistakenly associated with this topic: . The merely directly mention of the heat riser I can find in the 54 Truck Service transmission is folio 6-57, and that's to turn off the auto-choke. Which was optional to begin with. Model BC carbs were simply equipped on trucks with automatic transmissions. The information on the Rochester [b]BC[/ Now, I'll go dorsum to to being amused by statements about GM putting a supposedly unnecessary (or non-disquisitional) device on the vast majority of its 216/235/261 and 228/248/270 engines (and on many/nigh 302 engines). And, I'll be puzzled past why GM would spend the money on putting this device on most of those engines, if information technology was/is not really useful/necessary? Natter on with unsupportable opinions and speculations . . . |
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| The heat riser is to help keep the fuel atomized every bit it passes through the intake manifold. John |
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| Take an open elevation tin can and fill it with gas and hold a lucifer to it... Give me ambiguity |
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| It's the "vapor" that'southward on the top of the liquid Caso that's DG No due south%#t Sherlock? Where did I infer otherwise? The point is only those molecules whether in "vapor" or "liquid" land with access to O2 molecules can react to the oxidation. Give me ambiguity |
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| Chevrolet isn't the only engine manufacturer that adamant that long exposed intake runners on carb engines were more efficient in getting the fuel/air mixture into the cylinders when they were hotter than the ambient temp. On the onetime VW opposed four cylinder boxer engines the long intake manifold runner(due south) has frazzle oestrus circulating through a jacket that encloses the intake manifold where information technology splits directly nether the carb and information technology'due south full time rut, not regulated like on these sometime Stovebolt inline 6'southward. Should we expand the convo to discuss why many manufacturers of carb engines would preheat the incoming air on a cold engine? |
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| That video has one HUGE mistake that we all know of. At 6:16 it says 'speeded upwardly in one place, slowed down in another to keep the mixture uniform So THE SAME Corporeality OF GAS GETS INTO EACH CYLINDER." REALLY?????? We all know that the intake manifolds practice nothing of the sort.... BUT AT THE Time it was believed to be true. If you lot believe that GM/GMC engineers had everything so perfect that every widget on the motor was perfect in design and function and then you are in a fantasy land. In the 40'south motors were yet in their infancy and MARKETING cars was more than of import than the science behind them. There were no CAFE standards to meet and no safety requirements. The NHTS Bureau wasn't enacted till 1965. As my manuals land the operation of the heat riser is purely automated... meaning you could keep it off and however run the motor fine. I do believe that the bottom of the intake does derive a do good of boiling off the pooled gas (equally the charged incoming air makes that 90deg turn some fuel will drop out of suspension... its the same basic premise of how the oil bath air cleaners work). Only its not a meter heat that can be close off or turned on... the frazzle manifold will attain some quiescent state and that would be completely out of the risers control. |
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| Another mistake in that film: 4:55 "at a speed of 800mph TO VAPORIZE THE GASOLINE". Vaporize, No. Atomize, aye. Its a marketing motion-picture show. From the 30's. |
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| As my manuals state the operation of the estrus riser is purely automatic... meaning you could keep it off and all the same run the motor fine. Doesn't "being automated" mean 'able to modify from one state to some other'? As in 'Adjusting to changing conditions'. Or are we talking the semantics betwixt a motor running "fine" and i running 'better'? I do believe that the bottom of the intake does derive a benefit of boiling off the pooled gas (as the charged incoming air makes that 90deg plough some fuel volition drop out of suspension... And so the arrangement works your saying? but that it doesn't 'meter' the rut till it reaches the range for that systems performance "automatically" when the bound opens and closes? Give me ambiguity |
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| In an endeavour to keep this discussion going, when gasoline is atomized and/or vaporized, is the gasoline held in interruption (and information technology may later drib out of suspension)? Atomized, vaporized, suspended (one or more than), is the mixture of gaseous gasoline and air properly referred to as a gaseous mixture? When/if the fuel drops out of suspension afterward turning that 90 degree angle, it that called condensing/condensation? Just wondering. |
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| I mistyped the that judgement (oh noes! An error that is clear to anyone Not trying to simply be opposite!) I posted PREVIOUSLY that the riser on the CCKW (my truck) is MANUAL, and the setting is either OFF, ON, or BEST GUESS. I even posted a link to the pages that said so. The THEORY of how the riser should work vs the REALITY of what they do are two divide things. The Handy video conspicuously shows that at the time they idea two things were happening: one being the intakes on a Siamese port manufold with vastly unlike running lengths could somehow guarantee 'EQUAL' amounts of fuel charge to the cylinders is laughable. The other that the riser was boiling fuel into vapor. The former is wrong, the latter is somewhat correct, but not for all operating conditions. And yeah, I could run across how a heat source could vaporize fuel. That HOW Yous VAPORIZE IT, by raising the temp to the boiling indicate. But unless you lot get directly contact with the metal, the air is non in the intake long enough to have any significant rise in temperature. Also, fuel pooling at the bottom of an intake box, with the choke on accelerator pedal down and VERY COLD air (like a common cold star on a cold day) is a common problem. Only at that time the riser is as common cold every bit the exterior air, and there is no gamble of whatsoever humid as its not warm plenty to do and then. The most significant deviation between atomized and vaporized fuel is the size of the fuel droplet. If you take a common hand pump similar a bottle of Windex and set the tip to 'spray' you lot get that cloud of atomized Windex that you lot can clearly however run into, and promptly falls to the floor. The droplets are large and heavy. Vaporized fuel is like steam from a pot of boiling water... calorie-free and small-scale. Of the ii, which ones i would be more efficient to burn and transport through a metal tube? The steam as information technology will non autumn out of the air, and also liquid gasoline does not fire, the vapors do. This is virtually noticeable with diesel fuel. Y'all cannot light raw diesel fuel fuel. Yous tin can drop a lit friction match on the stuff and information technology will put out the fire. But rut the diesel up till it gives off a vapor and ka-pw! Fire!!! Last edited by pfarber; Tue Dec 17 2013 12:35 PM. |
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| Take a expect at this link... http:/ We tin debate from hither to eternity and 2d approximate the engineers that designed these cars and trucks that we play with. If whatever of the states wants to reinvent or re engineer their vehicle so be it and more ability to you. The other side of the money is to accept the way things have been designed and manufactured and savor them. Don |
| Re: Rut riser repair |
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| [quote=pfarber]That video has 1 HUGE error that we all know of. At half-dozen:sixteen it says 'speeded upwards in one place, slowed downwards in another to keep the mixture compatible SO THE SAME AMOUNT OF GAS GETS INTO EACH CYLINDER." REALLY?????? We all know that the intake manifolds do nothing of the sort.... Simply AT THE Time it was believed to be true. I don't call back that they are as far off as you advise. Our vision of the shape and pattern of the intake as a static piece of metal being asymmetric and having shared ports does not accept into business relationship the dynamic aspect of what goes on when things are in motion. When a cylinder which shares a port goes down, it draws in a book of fuel/air equal to one which is unshared, simply at a faster rate due to the smaller port. Another aspect is that cylinders which share ports do non demand fuel/air at the same moment in time. We do know that this caput design is non the most efficient design ever made, but if it was as horrible every bit our static, linear notions would lead us to believe, they wouldn't even start, let lonely run or idle. |
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| Carb heat is non the aforementioned as what the heat riser is expected to practise. When I flew (private airplane pilot) carb heat was beat into your head as carb icing was a very real danger fifty-fifty on bright sunny days. Likewise carb heat is not intended to be a fuel economic system device, but to do what information technology says... melt ice in the carb/venturi. The runner length on an intake manifold can cause fuel delivery bug as the length of the runner is part of the equation that determines how much air can pass per unit of fourth dimension and how much of a pressure level driblet. A skillful example of this is to put a force per unit area judge on an air hose right subsequently the regulator, information technology volition read the same force per unit area that the regulator is set up at. Add together a 25ft hose and measure the pressure at the end and its not the same. Its less as the volume that the air has to fill is greater (length of the hose) and things like surface friction volition impact how human CFM tin can pass. It matters even in runs of a foot or two. Why do y'all think fenton double intakes give y'all more performance than stock? The amount of deportation of the motor has not changed, just the length of the intake to each cylinder is much smaller and more direct... improving performance. Think in the 40s-50s they all the same didn't know much about motors as there was no need to have very efficient clean cars. Today they study the heck out of every bit trying to become 1%, heck, 0.5% increase in performance. |
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| If you do a search you can read well-nigh members having carb icing on the base plate. |
| Re: Estrus riser repair |
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| Any carb can take icing issues. But at that place is a very footling surface area where direct intake/exhaust is made... then add to that an insulating gasket and most oestrus will exist from radiations, non a very effective way to heat the base. Plus carb ice occurs in the venturi, not the intake. My two 43's (GMC and Chevvy) have a governor, on top of a i/2inch insulator, which sits on the intake. Not a lot of oestrus going to get that far up. A lot of twoscore's trucks have that setup. |
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